Saturday, March 8, 2008

****Borko Interview: Q & A****

****Borko Interview: Q & A****
Posted: Yesterday at 3:24pm

Guys, I submitted all of your questions to Borko and he has kindly answered them. Here is the transcript:


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How exactly would he make a customized blade for a guy living on the East Coast? Do I send him a video of me playing?

*** After order is placed series of question are communicated between me and the player about its game style of play and playing characteristics and then the blade is crafted ***

What type of player would he recommend a carbon, Arylate/kevlar, Aramid blade to? and why?


*** I do not use carbon fibers in the construction of my blades . All of the blades that I make are of 100% wood fibers. Having sad this I realize that carbon, arylate , Kevlar and other materials are used in the construction of modern blades so I can not comment on them due to my limited understanding of these materials. I understand wood blades only. ***

Can you please improve your handle design to make it look more attractive and cool?

*** Thank you for bringing this to my attention. New Borko & Son blades are made with the new designs using exotic and rare hard woods . *

What is the general price range? I realise that it will probably vary since each blade is unique, but what would an average price tag be?

*** General price range for the blade is 150.00$ postage included for deliveries within continental U.S. of A , International orders shipments are in addition to this as we use United States Postal Service . Rates of the USPS for the international deliveries are quite reasonable.*

How long does it take to build the blade itself? do u have any set routines? is it a son and dad thing, with regards to both of you guys doing the one blade?

*** All the work is done by myself and traditions learned in instrument making are very much part of the blade making process. It takes me approximately 6-8 hrs to craft a blade understanding that due to the hide glues used in production each veneer of wood takes 12 hrs to fully cure. With 5, 7 and sometimes 9 ply blades it takes a bit longer. I make all laminations myself from beginning till end. Son is going to finish his education so it is for all practical purposes is just me making the blades ***

Did you have any idols as a young boy do u still do?

*** My idols when I was growing and playing in what used to be known as Yugoslavia just to name a few: Surbek ,Stipancic,Jonier,Klampar,Alser,Johanson,Li Fu Yung, Chuang Ce Tung and of course Stellan Bentsson who I see every day, for we are both in San Diego TT one of the biggest club in the USA with more than 850 registered members last year.*

Why five plies instead of 1?

*** One ply is blade is used by the players who like the Power and the feeling for there blade. Often made of Kiso Hinoki wood which is Japanese cypress that grows in high mountains of Japan. Blade made of Kiso Hinoki has specific playing characteristics that are highly prized by the pen holder players especially one that like to flat hit the ball. Upon request I make the 1 ply and 5 ply Hinoki blade for the players that prefer that type of wood. I myself use a blade that is 5 ply made of Hinoki Wood. Lately type of American wood called Port Orford Cedar is used as a substitute for Kiso Hinoki. “POC” is characterized by the different coloration of dark strikes and it is a bit softer with the wider grain growth. Kiso Hinoki due to its growth in the higher elevation is milky white with slight pink coloration tight grain both are aromatic but Kiso Hinoki is characterized by the bountiful lemony smell and it is often preferred to “POC”.***

Does a balsa center provide anything more to a blade than stiffness and lightness? Why in most blades the center ply is much thicker than the outer plies

*** Yes you are correct.“Core” of the blade is wide center layer usually made of Balsa, Poplar, Bass and sometimes Kiso Hinoki , gives blade its stiffness and lightness than a thin layer of the first veneers next to it are called “primary” and finally “secondary” on the top ply (are the ones you see). Direction of the grain of the wood gives the characteristics and stability to blade***

What is your favorite wood?/ What type of woods do you use to made the blade?

***It is hard to say what is my favorite wood. Each wood has its own characteristics and if I have to chose it will be Purple Hart, Movenge, Koto,Kiso Hinoki well I really like them all and there characteristics. Sometimes I use the Wood you do not hear about like Olive Wood for instance.***

Professional players stand to benefit most from a customized design and construction. Does custom design play a large role for top players?

***Professional player knows what he needs and they insist on the things they like. Just like with us ordinary club players everyone is different. Main difference is that they do not change the equipment often like we do. Most stick and stay with the equipment that works. They spend more time to improve the elements of their game after all it is their profession. But often they need to replace and repair the equipment. So from time to time I engage in the restoration and the repair of the blades. Last year I had to repair the old blade for Stefan Feth. He use the old Joola “Legend” blade that is not made any more. ***

How long is the delivery time? If I for example were to order one tomorrow, when could I expect to be playing with it? (live in Europe) .

***Present delivery time is 2-3 weeks. There are several orders in place and I’m the only one making blades. Most of the customers know that and are understanding and are willing to weight.***

About Nittaku Violin and Acoustic:

Do you make something similar?*** Yes I do ***
Could you give an estimate of the cost of making the Nittaku blades?

*** Every blade that I make is custom made .Most of them are 150.00$ some little more. If you like the “Nittaku” blade you should buy the “Nittaku” blade .In the case of mass produced blades you are matched to a pre-made blade characteristics .In the case of small private maker blades characteristics are matched to you and you game. So if you want the blade made to fit your game you will look for a private maker to craft a blade for you.***

What are most important factors affecting the power, the speed and the control of a blade?

***Power and speed are directly dependent on number of plies and the type of wood used. “Control” of the blade is different thing for you and me and lets say Samsonov. But in my opinion “control” is the most important characteristic of the blade. You can generate the power when you need it but “control” you ether have in the blade or not. Control is also something we also develop in the game by training hard and practicing long hrs .I like to say that ”Power is Nothing Without Control”.***


4. How to produce synergy between rubber and the blade?

***Often mistake are made in selection of the rubber for the particular blade to suit the payer and his needs. There are three variables :

v player,

v blade

v rubber.

Rubber we chose for the particular blade needs to compliment the playing characteristics of the blade and together with the blade fit the players need. Often new and inexperienced player will chose a fast blade and fast rubber combo let say Bryce/Kreanga Carbon. After we often wonder what is in control of what, Player of his blade ,or its blade in control of him?***

Is it easy to make identical blades (in terms of playing characters)? How large the variation usually?

***To make identical blade is possible and hard and it is best done at the time blades is ordered. Often request is made buy the customers for two blades at the time matched to its playing characteristics and the weight.

Everyone is familiar with the case of finding the blade that they like, lets say Korbel” 80 grams. They go to store arm with the weight scale go over 30 “Korbel” blades and finally find the one of same weight. When they put the rubber on to there surprise it plays nothing like the blade they already have. How is this possible? Same blade ,brand name ,exact weight but totally different playing characteristics.

The answer is in the mass production of the blades .Large companies (not the name the names) use different wood suppliers, different OEM companies to make the blades it self .So even that there are standards and quality control in place they mostly look the same.

Private makers of blades like instrument makers use the wood supply that is in their shop for years. I have wood that have sat in my shop for 30 years now. Wood like that is naturally seasoned and aged and it is very stable. Large companies and blade manufacturers do not have time to do that. They have to make the blades for the large market

Have you always wondered why everyone likes the “old blade”?***

Compared to making instruments is blade making low tech? or a piece of art? or high tech?

**Compared to instrument making , making of the table tennis blade is very similar. Let say that we have the two identical blades in every aspect. One goes to professional player who practices 4 hrs per day and plays matches 4 time a week and the other blade goes to my closet and sits there . Ten years down the line both blades meet each other again , both get the same rubber and they are played side by side by the same player. What do you think will be the better blade? One that was played for 10 years and was “driven” four hrs. per day or the one that “fell a sleep” in my closet. One that looked like the “ugly duckling” with bumps , bruises and scars from the battles and numerous matches and hits on the table or the one “pristine” looking that “fell a sleep” in my closet. One that was used by a player for four hrs a day will clearly outperform in every aspect the one blade that was not used.

But you do not want to listen to me . After all I do believe that “Table Tennis blades go to sleep”.

Borko

***Use of glues in the making of the table tennis blades ***

Use of natural ( hide glues) compares to modern glues(resin glues) is one of essential steps in making of the fine instruments .This time honored proven tradition I feel is very important in making of the table tennis blades. As instrument every table tennis blade vibrate to some degree . Sometimes we welcome this vibration and sometimes not.

Vibration of the blade after the ball is struck with it is what we call the “feel”. It is hard to explain what the “feel” is but if you ever try to make an effective drop shot and take all the energy out of the incoming ball with the blade you have depended on “feel “ of the blade to do this. Some blades are better to execute this than others. Have you played very short pushes and couple of points the “short game” welcome to the “feel of the blade” .To some players this means a lot and to some nothing at all but all blades will vibrate. Modern glues will dry by the chemical reaction and in the process of drying will leave the layer of the glue on the top of the surface. Glue as such will dampen the vibration of the blade . So as we look at the 5 ply or 7 or 9 ply blade we are rely playing a mixture of “glue” and the “wood”. Some glues are better than others .But naturally made glues will seep in to the substructure of the wood thus leaving this very thin layer in between the pieces of the wood improving the “feel” and I believe the performance of the blade. Hide glues are harder to work with,there is a shelf life to worry about, temperature of application is about 140°F this is very important and its called “open time”. Unused glue had to be kept in freezer to prevent the growth of microorganism in it.

So all in all hide glues I feel are better for the blades but they are the pain ………. to use and work with . If you are used to it bund of two layers of wood will be just as strong as with the modern glues but the “feel” of the blade will be improved . This process is time consuming and it takes time to set and cure. As materials used in construction of the blade its age ,moisture everything makes the difference to some degree.

I trust that this explanation will shed some light on the use of the hide glues. As originally started with the “private labels” and small makers hide glues are now accepted with the large companies as a superior way to make a blade when the “feel” of the blade is of concern.

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